Monday, 28 February 2011

Day 23 - Possibly the Dirtiest City in the World

Sitting in Front of a Statue in the Square


How I felt about the City on First Sight

Local Boys Playing Soccer at Night
This morning more guys showed up at 7:30, and they went straight to bed! Haha! Anyways, today we went to the market for the last time. And I bought a long white dress. Then we each had a croissant, and I also had an apple danish. Breakfast was delicious! We got our stuff and headed over to the Termini train station. We left on the 10:18 train to Napoli, because the line for reservations took forever! The train ride was super uneventful, except for the lady in the seat beside me kept elbowing me and taking up space in my seat. It was fairly annoying. When we got to Napoli we headed straight for our hostel. The hostel seems pretty good. My initial thoughts about the street it’s on were not however. After walking around though, we realized that is just the way the city is! Garbage everywhere! After dropping our stuff, we wanted to go to the archeological museum. Leaving our street (not even a block) 6 Italian men called out to us, not even selling anything (except maybe their hearts). We wandered, then the museum was closed. So then we walked around some more. We saw a monument covered in graffiti. Everything in Napoli is 1. covered in graffiti, and 2. smothered in garbage. Plus I find it’s worse here for people calling out to you. Dom described our street as a sausagefest. And at the time, it was. They cleared out when all the people selling things left for the afternoon. On our way back to our hostel, we stopped in a few stores. I bought a dress and a purse for 5 euros each. Maryn will love the dress; it’s awesome! Then we hung out at the hostel, and the power went out while I was on the computer, which sucked. So we went and got pizza. Then Dom finally beat me at speed. Haha, I forgot even earlier we stopped to get ice cream and the guy made a joke that it would cost 1 euro and a kiss. It ended up being 2.20 euro. We both aren’t sure whether we like Napoli very much. The views are great if you can get past all the garbage everywhere. And the monuments are really nice, if you can ignore the graffiti. We both definitely liked Rome better. Finally, I was going to take my shower. The shower is mouldy. I have never felt so dirty while showering. Then I was shaving my legs and a scab from a bug bite on my leg, sort of...came off. It was bleeding so bad I had to get out of the shower, I dripped water everywhere, and soaked a gauze pad in blood. Not the most pleasant shower of my life. Then around 9:30, all the neighbourhood boys gathered in the parking lot outside our building to play soccer. They were pretty good. And very into it. There was this one kid in a grey t-shirt who was really quick. He scored most of the goals. It was very interesting to follow (also our tv was broken). I have never enjoyed soccer so much. Tough kids. 

Day 22 - Tadpole

Roman Forum
So we started our morning with our now daily trip to the market. Then we went to the Internet Point, to use the computers. Then we decided to see the Palatine Hill and Roman Forum ruins again. They are pretty sweet, especially imagining everything they once were. On the way to our afternoon walking tour, I bought a dress and a shirt, both backless. When we got to the meeting place for the tour, we were really happy to see that Tadpole was our guide again. He even recognized us. First we saw the Circus Maximus, where Tad explained the real history of Rome and the history which was made up by the Ancient Romans. The made up history spans a much longer period of time and is not really realistic at all, but it is very interesting and very typical of the Ancient Romans. They only did things that were totally over the top and totally unnecessary. For example, when the most beautiful girl in the town was raped by the prince, she made a passionate speech on a bench in the square about it. The townspeople, wanting to know who did it, became enraged. The girl accused the prince, pulled out her dagger and gutted herself, committing suicide. Brutus pulled out the knife and declared that no more kings would rule, then they went and overthrew the king and his son. Next we went and saw the mouth of truth, which had been dug up and put on display. After it was made famous in the movie ‘Roman Holiday’, people go and stick their hand in its mouth. Which is funny because it actually used to be the old manhole cover for the end of the sewer line. Romans used to called it something which translates roughly to ‘anus’. So tourists are standing in line to get their picture taken with their hand in a giant anus. Then we walked up to the Jewish Ghetto, where all the Jewish people were squished in like sardines, when the Pope made it illegal to be Jewish in Rome. They were eventually set free by an emperor who was trying to stick it to the papacy after he kicked it’s butt in a war and took a bunch of it’s power. Then we saw a temple to the cow god and another to the port god, where the cow market used to be, where the beautiful girl supposedly gutted herself. Next, we saw some ruins where all the stray cats live. They’re there because an emperor wanted to rid Rome of rats, so he imported 10,000 cats from Egypt, or some other large and over the top, totally unnecessary number. Later, when Mussolini was being a dictator, he tried to unite himself with Ancient Rome (because he wanted to make himself emperor). One way he did that was by digging up the Colosseum, the Roman Forum and even here where the cats hang out. And since there were so many, he decided to have a cat census, finding that there were something like 70,000 cats living in Rome. Then, instead of ridding Rome of so many cats he used them to put himself closer to Ancient Rome too. He made them Roman citizens and had them all spayed and neutered to control the population a little bit. Dad, I think, would agree with the method which Tad suggested for getting rid of the cats. He said he would’ve had some beers with friends, then all go out with sacks with weights for the cats and then toss them in the river. Next we made a stop at the Pantheon, which originally was paid for by the Roman emperor who had the most power, Hadrian(the Adriatic Sea was named after him). He had it built with a domed roof with a hole it it. Throughout the day as the sun moved it shone through the hole onto different statues placed around the room. This indicated which god the people were supposed to be worshipping, because this was an all gods temple. But now it’s a Catholic church. And to this day no one knows how Hadrian did it. They have theories, like, some think they filled the building with packed dirt to pour the concrete on top, or maybe... I don’t know. But the dome is one solid piece of concrete, free-standing masonry, meaning, it has no supports. And Hadrian totally had two. He had a prototype, to make sure it worked. This became the roof for the men’s bathhouse in his villa, in what is now Tivoli. This guy built his villa like a small town. He had everything he needed. Then we took a break at Tad’s favourite little cafe near the Pantheon (I ate a Margherita pizza!) and it was pretty delicious! Next we walked down past a monument to Victor Emmanuel II, who is no one of huge importance. But his monument is over the top huge and unnecessary, so in essence, it’s very Italian. The statue of the man is so big, his moustache is over a meter long. Also, as a publicity stunt, Mussolini and 20 men cut a hole inside the statue and had dinner sitting inside Victor II on a horse. Intense... and weird. I bet it’s an awkward place to sit. Then we went near the Colosseum, and Tad told us all about it. Yes, they had naval battles, before they put the floor in. Yes, they fought and killed midgets. Yes, they were very violent. Also, it’s owned by the Catholic church, as everything else seems to be. I’m glad Joan (the only female Pope) stuck it to them. Not only was she a woman, she also had sex too. They didn’t know about either until she squatted on the side of the road and had a baby. This is why the cardinals can go and have a look at the papal junk anytime they want. Weird. The tour now done, I thanked Tad and he gave a weird handshake; hip, fist bump, explode, and said goodbye to the cute Canadians from Edmonton. Then Dom and I headed back to our hostel to shower before heading over to Pasta Rito’s. We weren’t sure if maybe Nicola would show up or not because we invited him by email. He didn’t in the end. We had some white wine, and pasta with salmon in it. It wasn’t as good as last nights but it was still delicious. Then when we were paying our waiter was trying to ask me out. I think, but he was very vague, something about a bar down the street later. So I said maybe, but I didn’t end up going. Dom and I played cards with the 4 girls from France instead. It was pretty fun. We played president, a suit game (which I can’t remember the name of) and signal. Then these 3 guys showed up at midnight. Very attractive guys. 

Sunday, 27 February 2011

Day 21 - Busy, Busy, Busy

Colosseum


Roman Forum

Villa D'Este

Villa D’Adriane
This morning I had forgotten to set my alarm. So of course when I woke up I assumed we had overslept. But we didn’t. When we got up we ate some of that granola in honey stuff I’ve been carrying around (Vitalis). Then we headed off in search of more fruit. The market was closed because it’s Sunday, so we had to find a supermarcato. I ate a peach and a handful of small apricot things. Then we took the Metro (the subway) to the Colosseum. It was one of the most unpleasant things I’ve ever done in my life. Being squished up to all these sweaty, sticky, stinky strangers. Once out at the Colosseum, we signed up for a guided tour. The first part was the Colosseum; the tour was given by this guy who was so dry and boring. I really didn’t enjoy him. The info was interesting, but it was hot and he didn’t make it too exciting. Then he said to meet Collin outside the exit for the second half at 12:30. The guy didn’t show up till 1:00, because apparently that’s the time we were supposed to be told. And his name was Jonathan, not Collin. But he had a nice accent, so it was pretty cute when he told us he wasn’t Collin. Then he took us up to see Palatine Hill, and he was much more charismatic than the other guy. He made a joke about the Ancient Romans with their chariots, and now the modern Romans with theirs. They’re called smart cars and fiats. He said that when Italians get behind the wheel, their eyes just gloss over and it’s as if they are back in the Stadium. So don’t get in front of their car, you’ll have to jump out of the way. And if they look like they are slowing down, they’re not; they’re just on their cell phone. His tour of the Palatine Hill ruins was really interesting, but we had to leave early because we were going to be late for our Tivoli tour. Dom and I decided that in hindsight, we should’ve skipped the Tivoli tour, because it was expensive and totally not worth the money. Plus we had to run through Rome to make it on time. It was super hot and we were drenched by the time we made it to the pick-up. At Tivoli we saw Villa D’Este. It was beautiful but our tour guide brought us there, bought the tickets and said have fun. She had nothing really to add about the history or anything. Then we moved on to Villa D’Adriane. These ruins were pretty cool too. But everything she told us we really already knew, so we both think we kind of wasted our money on that one. Silly Vascours Tours. We won’t be going with them again. When we got back into Rome, we went to Pasta Ritos again, because it’s delicious and fast and we hadn’t eaten since breakfast really... We ate some delicious pasta. Dom decided she wanted to try a limoncello because her mom drinks them. She didn’t like hers, so I ended up having both shots. Wow, I’m so exhausted. Spain won the World Cup! I wanted Ghana, but they were out last week when the other team cheated. So unfair! I also got a bit of a sunburn today. Oh man, it is so hot, even at night, but at least there is a fan that swings my way...or not. This girl from France didn’t like the noise, so now it’s not moving. She wanted to shut it off completely; crazy girl, there’s other people in the room. Quite selfish.

Day 20 - Nicola

Hostel Roma Inn 2000


Domed ceiling of the Pantheon

Castel Sant’Angelo
Today we slept in a little bit. Then we went back to the market around the corner, where I got some cute necklaces for Laura, Katelyn and I. Afterwards, we relaxed until it was time to meet Nicola for lunch. We met him by the fountain in Pieza D’Espana. He is a friend of Tante Carole and Uncle Rainer, now working for the orchestra in Rome. He took us for lunch in a typical Roman restaurant, where they make their own noodles in the restaurant. Then he brought us to his favourite gelateria, where I bought us gelato. Then he showed us the Pantheon before he had to be on his way. He is quite a nice guy. Dom and I found our way to Castel Sant’Angelo. It was actually so beautiful. I really enjoyed it. I wouldn’t mind living there. Haha! Then we went back to our hostel to get ready to go out. We grabbed a pizza sandwich down the street and then headed off towards Piazza Navona. I had a whiskey sour and Dom had a frozen strawberry something or other. Then we walked back, and I even got a few comments that I am bellissima. And time for bed!

Day 19 - Hostel Roma Inn 2000

Piazza Navona


St. Peter's Basilica

Trevi Fountain
This morning we were up at 7:30 so we could change over to the other hostel before starting our day. We dumped our stuff and went to the market around the corner from Hostel Roma Inn 2000. I bought a super-cool floor length summer dress. Then we started going through the walking tour from last night to take better pictures. We also stopped at the Cimitero dei Cappucine, which I mentioned yesterday. So the story is that they were somewhere else, and when they moved to the current location they couldn’t leave their dead behind, so they took them with them. They were too lazy to rebury them so they decorated the basement with the bones (which sounds like way more work, if you ask me). There are whole chandeliers, wall and ceiling patterns, even full skeletons in their clothes. It was intensely creepy and morbid, but kind of interesting, except in the last room, where they had some skeletons set up with a multilingual plaque that read, “What you are, we once were. What we are, you will be.” That was kind of really creepy. Dom said it made her think of a serial killer. Like Gormagon, from Bones! We of course then had to talk about all our favourite Bones episodes! When we left there, we continued the tour with a brief shopping break. I bought a light sweater and these crazy long pants which Maryn will love! Then we went to the Vatican. We didn’t wait in line too long; it actually went very quickly. So we looked around Saint Peter’s Basilica and took lots of pictures. Then Dom needed to go in the gift shop and she bought these two bracelets as gifts for people. Then we went back to finish the tour finally. On the way we stopped at the best Gelato place in Rome. And it was delicious, just like in Vienna. Haha, mmm... We also each bought a new bag, I think we’re going to need them. Plus, they are really cool and were only 20 euros each. We were going to have pasta at the hostel for 3 euros, but they only make it if 3 or more want some. The guy told us about Pasta Ritos around the corner. He said they made huge plates of pasta for 6 or 7 euros. And he didn’t lie or exaggerate. Right around the corner, this place was delicious! One order would’ve been enough for three of me! I ate way too much, it was so good! Dom and I might go back tomorrow night and share one order. In our room, there was two other girls and three guys. The hostel is pretty great. It’s really just this couple’s apartment. I kinda like it.

Day 18 - When in Rome

Night Tour

We woke up and went back to the train station. No train strike, not as far as we could tell. So we reserved for 10:06 on the train to Rome. Then we ate the free breakfast at the hotel. It was delicious. Then we headed out to look for snacks for the train, and a toothbrush and some toothpaste for me. I got a really cute children’s toothbrush with dolphins on it! We got on the train and it was a good, uneventful ride. Near the end we were playing speed, and we had to stop because we were nearing the stop. We counted the cards to see who won and they were exactly half and half. So I guess it was a tie. Haha. Once in Rome we stopped at a tourist office, where we got directions to the nearest Youth Hostel, called the Yellow. It was 30 euros each for one night. So we booked in, checked our email and searched for the next three nights online, we made reservations at Hostel Roma Inn 2000 for Friday, Saturday and Sunday night. Then I took a nap. It felt great. We ate dinner at the restaurant around the corner. Bread, pasta and Sorbetto al Limone, which, as it turns out, has alcohol in it. Pretty sure it was just Limone gelato soaked in...vodka maybe. Afterwards we found a bank machine; yesterday really put a dent in my funds. Then we walked to the meeting place of the night walking tour we had signed up for. Tad, the tour guide, didn’t get there till after us because we were there super early. Tad seemed like a pretty good guy. He is from Iowa and he studied Ancient Roman History in college. Then he moved to Rome and started this tour 4 years ago. He gave us interesting and factual information while joking around. We started the tour in the Piazza della Replubica, where there is a church that used to be a bathhouse. It was built by an emperor who hated Christians and killed as many as he could. The pope, 1000 years later, who turned it into a church, hired Michaelangelo to redo it. He knew both of these things would’ve pissed off the emperor who originally built it. Also in this piazza is a fountain which Tad referred to as part of fountains gone wild, because of the naked woman lying provocatively on it. Next, we walked to the Fontana del Tritone, done by Bernini, commissioned by his best friend, the Pope. The Pope also asked him to build a smaller fountain for drinking water with his family crest on it. He did this to knock Bernini off his high horse. But Bernini used this to make fun of the Pope, because Bernini is a wise-ass. The fountain is shaped like a very big clam, but the bottom is shaped to resemble a woman’s spread legs with the Pope’s family crest (a bee) as her clitoris. This is where the drinking water comes out. Bernini chose this idea when he heard about the Pope’s niece, who was very promiscuous. So the Romans call this Slut Fountain. Up the street live the Cappucine Monks. Next we walked to the Spanish steps, where you shouldn’t look when people make weird noises, because they’ll follow you all night. These steps were a gift to the Spanish, paid for by the French, built by the Italians, and it’s where all the German highschool students hangout. It’s also where Casanova used to hang out. Then we walked down to the Trevi Fountain. The only reason it was built was because the rich family living there wanted to show off and the Pope could see it from his house. So they built a fountain into the side of their house. When it was still being built, someone threw their son out of his bedroom window. It was obviously murder, he had all sorts of defence wounds, but the Pope said suicide, so no more questions were asked. But people kept seeing the son’s ghost come flying out the window, and never any more bodies. The family sealed the room to prevent further apparitions. People continued to see the ghost, so the family knocked out the window, bricked it over and painted the outside to look as if the window was still there. On the way to Piazza Navona, we saw a column depicting a battle. The piazza was cool too, lots of ancient drama with the Pope and Bernini (but not the same one who was his friend), and also Bernini’s rival. Very intense stuff with Bernini using his wit to kick butt again! The tour now ended and we walked back to The Yellow. We met the two new people in our dorm (a brother/sister pair) and then got ready for bed; we were so beat.

Day 17 - The Turtle

Castelvecchio


Statue of Juliet

In front of the Arena
We woke up this morning to breakfast in the hostel. Then we packed up our stuff. We checked out and headed back to the train station to store our stuff for the day. We found all our train info for the evening train and headed into the centre to see Castelvecchio. It was pretty nice but I prefer seeing the history and architecture than religious art. On the way to Casa di Giulietta we stopped for gelato. I found that it was thicker than in Vienna and it melted faster, more like ice cream. But my flavours were so good (melon, lemon and passion fruit). Casa di Giulietta was actually pretty cool. There were all the letters to Juliet, and they did the house up as it could’ve been in the time of Romeo and Juliet. There were some very cool frescoes, and it really was very pretty. And of course I wrote a letter to Juliet, because, you can’t go there and not write a letter; that would be silly, and such a waste. Now she’ll answer, but I hope not till I get home. We also stopped at the Arena. It was fairly boring, I think it would be more interesting when one of the operas is on. I’m a little sad that we missed the next one. It will be on the 8th, and it will be Carmen, which I really want to see. Maybe I’ll have to rent it. On our way out, we got pictures with the gladiators; that was interesting. I’ve decided that it would be a funny job. The girls looked like Zena Warrior Princess. I could totally do that. I should be her for Hallowe’en. The last thing we did was go and see Juliet’s tomb. They had many nice frescoes and well kept statues. The garden was beautiful. It was one of the nicest museums I’ve seen. Then we had to hurry and get something to eat before getting on our train to Riomaggiore. We were worried McDonald’s was going to be our only choice, but we ended up at a small cafe in the station instead. I had a probably not great panino, but I hadn’t eaten since breakfast, so I was so hungry. I forgot to mention that last night I found a book of poetry in our room. Someone had cut out their favourites and left it behind. Now I’m looking for my favourite. I already found two I like. Then we missed our stop. landed in Monterosso al Mare. Easy fix, we took the train back a station. Now in Riomaggiore, we couldn’t get a room. I lost my snacks, which isn’t the end of the world, but it does make me grumpy. So we got on a train going to La Spezia and the conductor gave us a fine for something about the dates which was obvious to him but not us. But he only fined us half, so 50 euros. Then off in La Spezia, we couldn’t find a map and everything is closed. But we could see a 3 star hotel from the train station. It cost us 110 euros, but we are safe, clean and breakfast is included, and we’ll be in Rome tomorrow. Unless Suzanne from Australia is right and there could be a train strike tomorrow, then we may end up staying in La Spezia. We’ll see. We also met two guys from California, who totally took the last two beds in Riomaggiore. They were so not gentlemen. It’ll get better tomorrow and it’s really not that bad anyways. I also realized that I lost my toothbrush and toothpaste. So we need to find a pharmacy in the morning. But, as Dominique just pointed out, “At least there’s real pillows.” Haha, because the pillows at the hostel last night were like thick foamy cardboard, it was funny. And our hotel room has a bidet. Weird. It was a good day on the train anyways. Dom and I were so tired we were laughing about the lamest things. It was actually a pretty funny day. She says she might switch to Laurier after a year off. It would be cool to see her more often, it’s been fun so far! There are two songs about me. One by the Monkees and one by Amy Winehouse. Suzanne from Australia told us we were  lucky to have such small packs.She has two; she’s been backpacking for three years. We also met some American women who were shocked that our whole lives could fit on our backs. We said yea, but I after meeting Suzanne I realized that wasn’t true. I still have a home and family and friends elsewhere, not like Suzanne. I’m not a turtle. Suzanne the turtle...from Australia.