Monday 28 February 2011

Day 23 - Possibly the Dirtiest City in the World

Sitting in Front of a Statue in the Square


How I felt about the City on First Sight

Local Boys Playing Soccer at Night
This morning more guys showed up at 7:30, and they went straight to bed! Haha! Anyways, today we went to the market for the last time. And I bought a long white dress. Then we each had a croissant, and I also had an apple danish. Breakfast was delicious! We got our stuff and headed over to the Termini train station. We left on the 10:18 train to Napoli, because the line for reservations took forever! The train ride was super uneventful, except for the lady in the seat beside me kept elbowing me and taking up space in my seat. It was fairly annoying. When we got to Napoli we headed straight for our hostel. The hostel seems pretty good. My initial thoughts about the street it’s on were not however. After walking around though, we realized that is just the way the city is! Garbage everywhere! After dropping our stuff, we wanted to go to the archeological museum. Leaving our street (not even a block) 6 Italian men called out to us, not even selling anything (except maybe their hearts). We wandered, then the museum was closed. So then we walked around some more. We saw a monument covered in graffiti. Everything in Napoli is 1. covered in graffiti, and 2. smothered in garbage. Plus I find it’s worse here for people calling out to you. Dom described our street as a sausagefest. And at the time, it was. They cleared out when all the people selling things left for the afternoon. On our way back to our hostel, we stopped in a few stores. I bought a dress and a purse for 5 euros each. Maryn will love the dress; it’s awesome! Then we hung out at the hostel, and the power went out while I was on the computer, which sucked. So we went and got pizza. Then Dom finally beat me at speed. Haha, I forgot even earlier we stopped to get ice cream and the guy made a joke that it would cost 1 euro and a kiss. It ended up being 2.20 euro. We both aren’t sure whether we like Napoli very much. The views are great if you can get past all the garbage everywhere. And the monuments are really nice, if you can ignore the graffiti. We both definitely liked Rome better. Finally, I was going to take my shower. The shower is mouldy. I have never felt so dirty while showering. Then I was shaving my legs and a scab from a bug bite on my leg, sort of...came off. It was bleeding so bad I had to get out of the shower, I dripped water everywhere, and soaked a gauze pad in blood. Not the most pleasant shower of my life. Then around 9:30, all the neighbourhood boys gathered in the parking lot outside our building to play soccer. They were pretty good. And very into it. There was this one kid in a grey t-shirt who was really quick. He scored most of the goals. It was very interesting to follow (also our tv was broken). I have never enjoyed soccer so much. Tough kids. 

Day 22 - Tadpole

Roman Forum
So we started our morning with our now daily trip to the market. Then we went to the Internet Point, to use the computers. Then we decided to see the Palatine Hill and Roman Forum ruins again. They are pretty sweet, especially imagining everything they once were. On the way to our afternoon walking tour, I bought a dress and a shirt, both backless. When we got to the meeting place for the tour, we were really happy to see that Tadpole was our guide again. He even recognized us. First we saw the Circus Maximus, where Tad explained the real history of Rome and the history which was made up by the Ancient Romans. The made up history spans a much longer period of time and is not really realistic at all, but it is very interesting and very typical of the Ancient Romans. They only did things that were totally over the top and totally unnecessary. For example, when the most beautiful girl in the town was raped by the prince, she made a passionate speech on a bench in the square about it. The townspeople, wanting to know who did it, became enraged. The girl accused the prince, pulled out her dagger and gutted herself, committing suicide. Brutus pulled out the knife and declared that no more kings would rule, then they went and overthrew the king and his son. Next we went and saw the mouth of truth, which had been dug up and put on display. After it was made famous in the movie ‘Roman Holiday’, people go and stick their hand in its mouth. Which is funny because it actually used to be the old manhole cover for the end of the sewer line. Romans used to called it something which translates roughly to ‘anus’. So tourists are standing in line to get their picture taken with their hand in a giant anus. Then we walked up to the Jewish Ghetto, where all the Jewish people were squished in like sardines, when the Pope made it illegal to be Jewish in Rome. They were eventually set free by an emperor who was trying to stick it to the papacy after he kicked it’s butt in a war and took a bunch of it’s power. Then we saw a temple to the cow god and another to the port god, where the cow market used to be, where the beautiful girl supposedly gutted herself. Next, we saw some ruins where all the stray cats live. They’re there because an emperor wanted to rid Rome of rats, so he imported 10,000 cats from Egypt, or some other large and over the top, totally unnecessary number. Later, when Mussolini was being a dictator, he tried to unite himself with Ancient Rome (because he wanted to make himself emperor). One way he did that was by digging up the Colosseum, the Roman Forum and even here where the cats hang out. And since there were so many, he decided to have a cat census, finding that there were something like 70,000 cats living in Rome. Then, instead of ridding Rome of so many cats he used them to put himself closer to Ancient Rome too. He made them Roman citizens and had them all spayed and neutered to control the population a little bit. Dad, I think, would agree with the method which Tad suggested for getting rid of the cats. He said he would’ve had some beers with friends, then all go out with sacks with weights for the cats and then toss them in the river. Next we made a stop at the Pantheon, which originally was paid for by the Roman emperor who had the most power, Hadrian(the Adriatic Sea was named after him). He had it built with a domed roof with a hole it it. Throughout the day as the sun moved it shone through the hole onto different statues placed around the room. This indicated which god the people were supposed to be worshipping, because this was an all gods temple. But now it’s a Catholic church. And to this day no one knows how Hadrian did it. They have theories, like, some think they filled the building with packed dirt to pour the concrete on top, or maybe... I don’t know. But the dome is one solid piece of concrete, free-standing masonry, meaning, it has no supports. And Hadrian totally had two. He had a prototype, to make sure it worked. This became the roof for the men’s bathhouse in his villa, in what is now Tivoli. This guy built his villa like a small town. He had everything he needed. Then we took a break at Tad’s favourite little cafe near the Pantheon (I ate a Margherita pizza!) and it was pretty delicious! Next we walked down past a monument to Victor Emmanuel II, who is no one of huge importance. But his monument is over the top huge and unnecessary, so in essence, it’s very Italian. The statue of the man is so big, his moustache is over a meter long. Also, as a publicity stunt, Mussolini and 20 men cut a hole inside the statue and had dinner sitting inside Victor II on a horse. Intense... and weird. I bet it’s an awkward place to sit. Then we went near the Colosseum, and Tad told us all about it. Yes, they had naval battles, before they put the floor in. Yes, they fought and killed midgets. Yes, they were very violent. Also, it’s owned by the Catholic church, as everything else seems to be. I’m glad Joan (the only female Pope) stuck it to them. Not only was she a woman, she also had sex too. They didn’t know about either until she squatted on the side of the road and had a baby. This is why the cardinals can go and have a look at the papal junk anytime they want. Weird. The tour now done, I thanked Tad and he gave a weird handshake; hip, fist bump, explode, and said goodbye to the cute Canadians from Edmonton. Then Dom and I headed back to our hostel to shower before heading over to Pasta Rito’s. We weren’t sure if maybe Nicola would show up or not because we invited him by email. He didn’t in the end. We had some white wine, and pasta with salmon in it. It wasn’t as good as last nights but it was still delicious. Then when we were paying our waiter was trying to ask me out. I think, but he was very vague, something about a bar down the street later. So I said maybe, but I didn’t end up going. Dom and I played cards with the 4 girls from France instead. It was pretty fun. We played president, a suit game (which I can’t remember the name of) and signal. Then these 3 guys showed up at midnight. Very attractive guys. 

Sunday 27 February 2011

Day 21 - Busy, Busy, Busy

Colosseum


Roman Forum

Villa D'Este

Villa D’Adriane
This morning I had forgotten to set my alarm. So of course when I woke up I assumed we had overslept. But we didn’t. When we got up we ate some of that granola in honey stuff I’ve been carrying around (Vitalis). Then we headed off in search of more fruit. The market was closed because it’s Sunday, so we had to find a supermarcato. I ate a peach and a handful of small apricot things. Then we took the Metro (the subway) to the Colosseum. It was one of the most unpleasant things I’ve ever done in my life. Being squished up to all these sweaty, sticky, stinky strangers. Once out at the Colosseum, we signed up for a guided tour. The first part was the Colosseum; the tour was given by this guy who was so dry and boring. I really didn’t enjoy him. The info was interesting, but it was hot and he didn’t make it too exciting. Then he said to meet Collin outside the exit for the second half at 12:30. The guy didn’t show up till 1:00, because apparently that’s the time we were supposed to be told. And his name was Jonathan, not Collin. But he had a nice accent, so it was pretty cute when he told us he wasn’t Collin. Then he took us up to see Palatine Hill, and he was much more charismatic than the other guy. He made a joke about the Ancient Romans with their chariots, and now the modern Romans with theirs. They’re called smart cars and fiats. He said that when Italians get behind the wheel, their eyes just gloss over and it’s as if they are back in the Stadium. So don’t get in front of their car, you’ll have to jump out of the way. And if they look like they are slowing down, they’re not; they’re just on their cell phone. His tour of the Palatine Hill ruins was really interesting, but we had to leave early because we were going to be late for our Tivoli tour. Dom and I decided that in hindsight, we should’ve skipped the Tivoli tour, because it was expensive and totally not worth the money. Plus we had to run through Rome to make it on time. It was super hot and we were drenched by the time we made it to the pick-up. At Tivoli we saw Villa D’Este. It was beautiful but our tour guide brought us there, bought the tickets and said have fun. She had nothing really to add about the history or anything. Then we moved on to Villa D’Adriane. These ruins were pretty cool too. But everything she told us we really already knew, so we both think we kind of wasted our money on that one. Silly Vascours Tours. We won’t be going with them again. When we got back into Rome, we went to Pasta Ritos again, because it’s delicious and fast and we hadn’t eaten since breakfast really... We ate some delicious pasta. Dom decided she wanted to try a limoncello because her mom drinks them. She didn’t like hers, so I ended up having both shots. Wow, I’m so exhausted. Spain won the World Cup! I wanted Ghana, but they were out last week when the other team cheated. So unfair! I also got a bit of a sunburn today. Oh man, it is so hot, even at night, but at least there is a fan that swings my way...or not. This girl from France didn’t like the noise, so now it’s not moving. She wanted to shut it off completely; crazy girl, there’s other people in the room. Quite selfish.

Day 20 - Nicola

Hostel Roma Inn 2000


Domed ceiling of the Pantheon

Castel Sant’Angelo
Today we slept in a little bit. Then we went back to the market around the corner, where I got some cute necklaces for Laura, Katelyn and I. Afterwards, we relaxed until it was time to meet Nicola for lunch. We met him by the fountain in Pieza D’Espana. He is a friend of Tante Carole and Uncle Rainer, now working for the orchestra in Rome. He took us for lunch in a typical Roman restaurant, where they make their own noodles in the restaurant. Then he brought us to his favourite gelateria, where I bought us gelato. Then he showed us the Pantheon before he had to be on his way. He is quite a nice guy. Dom and I found our way to Castel Sant’Angelo. It was actually so beautiful. I really enjoyed it. I wouldn’t mind living there. Haha! Then we went back to our hostel to get ready to go out. We grabbed a pizza sandwich down the street and then headed off towards Piazza Navona. I had a whiskey sour and Dom had a frozen strawberry something or other. Then we walked back, and I even got a few comments that I am bellissima. And time for bed!

Day 19 - Hostel Roma Inn 2000

Piazza Navona


St. Peter's Basilica

Trevi Fountain
This morning we were up at 7:30 so we could change over to the other hostel before starting our day. We dumped our stuff and went to the market around the corner from Hostel Roma Inn 2000. I bought a super-cool floor length summer dress. Then we started going through the walking tour from last night to take better pictures. We also stopped at the Cimitero dei Cappucine, which I mentioned yesterday. So the story is that they were somewhere else, and when they moved to the current location they couldn’t leave their dead behind, so they took them with them. They were too lazy to rebury them so they decorated the basement with the bones (which sounds like way more work, if you ask me). There are whole chandeliers, wall and ceiling patterns, even full skeletons in their clothes. It was intensely creepy and morbid, but kind of interesting, except in the last room, where they had some skeletons set up with a multilingual plaque that read, “What you are, we once were. What we are, you will be.” That was kind of really creepy. Dom said it made her think of a serial killer. Like Gormagon, from Bones! We of course then had to talk about all our favourite Bones episodes! When we left there, we continued the tour with a brief shopping break. I bought a light sweater and these crazy long pants which Maryn will love! Then we went to the Vatican. We didn’t wait in line too long; it actually went very quickly. So we looked around Saint Peter’s Basilica and took lots of pictures. Then Dom needed to go in the gift shop and she bought these two bracelets as gifts for people. Then we went back to finish the tour finally. On the way we stopped at the best Gelato place in Rome. And it was delicious, just like in Vienna. Haha, mmm... We also each bought a new bag, I think we’re going to need them. Plus, they are really cool and were only 20 euros each. We were going to have pasta at the hostel for 3 euros, but they only make it if 3 or more want some. The guy told us about Pasta Ritos around the corner. He said they made huge plates of pasta for 6 or 7 euros. And he didn’t lie or exaggerate. Right around the corner, this place was delicious! One order would’ve been enough for three of me! I ate way too much, it was so good! Dom and I might go back tomorrow night and share one order. In our room, there was two other girls and three guys. The hostel is pretty great. It’s really just this couple’s apartment. I kinda like it.

Day 18 - When in Rome

Night Tour

We woke up and went back to the train station. No train strike, not as far as we could tell. So we reserved for 10:06 on the train to Rome. Then we ate the free breakfast at the hotel. It was delicious. Then we headed out to look for snacks for the train, and a toothbrush and some toothpaste for me. I got a really cute children’s toothbrush with dolphins on it! We got on the train and it was a good, uneventful ride. Near the end we were playing speed, and we had to stop because we were nearing the stop. We counted the cards to see who won and they were exactly half and half. So I guess it was a tie. Haha. Once in Rome we stopped at a tourist office, where we got directions to the nearest Youth Hostel, called the Yellow. It was 30 euros each for one night. So we booked in, checked our email and searched for the next three nights online, we made reservations at Hostel Roma Inn 2000 for Friday, Saturday and Sunday night. Then I took a nap. It felt great. We ate dinner at the restaurant around the corner. Bread, pasta and Sorbetto al Limone, which, as it turns out, has alcohol in it. Pretty sure it was just Limone gelato soaked in...vodka maybe. Afterwards we found a bank machine; yesterday really put a dent in my funds. Then we walked to the meeting place of the night walking tour we had signed up for. Tad, the tour guide, didn’t get there till after us because we were there super early. Tad seemed like a pretty good guy. He is from Iowa and he studied Ancient Roman History in college. Then he moved to Rome and started this tour 4 years ago. He gave us interesting and factual information while joking around. We started the tour in the Piazza della Replubica, where there is a church that used to be a bathhouse. It was built by an emperor who hated Christians and killed as many as he could. The pope, 1000 years later, who turned it into a church, hired Michaelangelo to redo it. He knew both of these things would’ve pissed off the emperor who originally built it. Also in this piazza is a fountain which Tad referred to as part of fountains gone wild, because of the naked woman lying provocatively on it. Next, we walked to the Fontana del Tritone, done by Bernini, commissioned by his best friend, the Pope. The Pope also asked him to build a smaller fountain for drinking water with his family crest on it. He did this to knock Bernini off his high horse. But Bernini used this to make fun of the Pope, because Bernini is a wise-ass. The fountain is shaped like a very big clam, but the bottom is shaped to resemble a woman’s spread legs with the Pope’s family crest (a bee) as her clitoris. This is where the drinking water comes out. Bernini chose this idea when he heard about the Pope’s niece, who was very promiscuous. So the Romans call this Slut Fountain. Up the street live the Cappucine Monks. Next we walked to the Spanish steps, where you shouldn’t look when people make weird noises, because they’ll follow you all night. These steps were a gift to the Spanish, paid for by the French, built by the Italians, and it’s where all the German highschool students hangout. It’s also where Casanova used to hang out. Then we walked down to the Trevi Fountain. The only reason it was built was because the rich family living there wanted to show off and the Pope could see it from his house. So they built a fountain into the side of their house. When it was still being built, someone threw their son out of his bedroom window. It was obviously murder, he had all sorts of defence wounds, but the Pope said suicide, so no more questions were asked. But people kept seeing the son’s ghost come flying out the window, and never any more bodies. The family sealed the room to prevent further apparitions. People continued to see the ghost, so the family knocked out the window, bricked it over and painted the outside to look as if the window was still there. On the way to Piazza Navona, we saw a column depicting a battle. The piazza was cool too, lots of ancient drama with the Pope and Bernini (but not the same one who was his friend), and also Bernini’s rival. Very intense stuff with Bernini using his wit to kick butt again! The tour now ended and we walked back to The Yellow. We met the two new people in our dorm (a brother/sister pair) and then got ready for bed; we were so beat.

Day 17 - The Turtle

Castelvecchio


Statue of Juliet

In front of the Arena
We woke up this morning to breakfast in the hostel. Then we packed up our stuff. We checked out and headed back to the train station to store our stuff for the day. We found all our train info for the evening train and headed into the centre to see Castelvecchio. It was pretty nice but I prefer seeing the history and architecture than religious art. On the way to Casa di Giulietta we stopped for gelato. I found that it was thicker than in Vienna and it melted faster, more like ice cream. But my flavours were so good (melon, lemon and passion fruit). Casa di Giulietta was actually pretty cool. There were all the letters to Juliet, and they did the house up as it could’ve been in the time of Romeo and Juliet. There were some very cool frescoes, and it really was very pretty. And of course I wrote a letter to Juliet, because, you can’t go there and not write a letter; that would be silly, and such a waste. Now she’ll answer, but I hope not till I get home. We also stopped at the Arena. It was fairly boring, I think it would be more interesting when one of the operas is on. I’m a little sad that we missed the next one. It will be on the 8th, and it will be Carmen, which I really want to see. Maybe I’ll have to rent it. On our way out, we got pictures with the gladiators; that was interesting. I’ve decided that it would be a funny job. The girls looked like Zena Warrior Princess. I could totally do that. I should be her for Hallowe’en. The last thing we did was go and see Juliet’s tomb. They had many nice frescoes and well kept statues. The garden was beautiful. It was one of the nicest museums I’ve seen. Then we had to hurry and get something to eat before getting on our train to Riomaggiore. We were worried McDonald’s was going to be our only choice, but we ended up at a small cafe in the station instead. I had a probably not great panino, but I hadn’t eaten since breakfast, so I was so hungry. I forgot to mention that last night I found a book of poetry in our room. Someone had cut out their favourites and left it behind. Now I’m looking for my favourite. I already found two I like. Then we missed our stop. landed in Monterosso al Mare. Easy fix, we took the train back a station. Now in Riomaggiore, we couldn’t get a room. I lost my snacks, which isn’t the end of the world, but it does make me grumpy. So we got on a train going to La Spezia and the conductor gave us a fine for something about the dates which was obvious to him but not us. But he only fined us half, so 50 euros. Then off in La Spezia, we couldn’t find a map and everything is closed. But we could see a 3 star hotel from the train station. It cost us 110 euros, but we are safe, clean and breakfast is included, and we’ll be in Rome tomorrow. Unless Suzanne from Australia is right and there could be a train strike tomorrow, then we may end up staying in La Spezia. We’ll see. We also met two guys from California, who totally took the last two beds in Riomaggiore. They were so not gentlemen. It’ll get better tomorrow and it’s really not that bad anyways. I also realized that I lost my toothbrush and toothpaste. So we need to find a pharmacy in the morning. But, as Dominique just pointed out, “At least there’s real pillows.” Haha, because the pillows at the hostel last night were like thick foamy cardboard, it was funny. And our hotel room has a bidet. Weird. It was a good day on the train anyways. Dom and I were so tired we were laughing about the lamest things. It was actually a pretty funny day. She says she might switch to Laurier after a year off. It would be cool to see her more often, it’s been fun so far! There are two songs about me. One by the Monkees and one by Amy Winehouse. Suzanne from Australia told us we were  lucky to have such small packs.She has two; she’s been backpacking for three years. We also met some American women who were shocked that our whole lives could fit on our backs. We said yea, but I after meeting Suzanne I realized that wasn’t true. I still have a home and family and friends elsewhere, not like Suzanne. I’m not a turtle. Suzanne the turtle...from Australia. 

Saturday 26 February 2011

Day 16 - French Romeos

Great View


Great Walk

Great Museums
First day in Italy. We’re here in lovely Verona. It was so hot. It took us awhile to find our hostel, but we did, so we ditched our stuff. Then we took a walk up past Castel San Pietro (or something like that). Heading down towards the river, we stopped at the Roman Theatre and Archeological museum. It was cool to see how much has survived to the present day. My favourite part was the mosaics. I want to have a mosaic floor in my house someday. And a fountain...with turtles in it.  Next we crossed the bridge into the city centre to have lunch. We ate at Cappa Cafe. I had pizza, mmm...On our way there we saw three boys who were quite attractive except for certain unfortunate facial hair. When we arrived at our chosen cafe, we found that they were already there. We passed them twice more in the city. After lunch we walked around, Dominique changed money and I bought a keychain. Then we went to see the Giardino Gusti. It was 6 euros to see some gardens which weren’t even that nice. But at the back there was a path up to a really nice terrace and a tower which took us up even higher above the city. They also had a pretty cool fountain with two fish and three turtles in it. Then we sat by the river with our feet in, it was really cold, but it felt sooo nice! Afterwards, we stopped at an internet cafe called Realta Virtuele. They had some really cool computer mice. We headed back to our hostel to put our stuff actually in our room and to shower. Soon after, the guys from the city centre showed up. I think we made an impression because the one guy even nodded a ‘hi’ when we passed them. We decided to call them the French Romeos, because we heard them speaking French and we met them in Verona. We ate pasta, french beans (which, as it turns out, are just green beans), and a chicken breast. Then I kicked Dominique’s butt at speed again. 

Day 15 - Viennese Legends and my First Ever Train Ride

My Bunk!

This morning we went over to the Museum Quarter. But we decided there wasn’t anything we wanted to see so we navigated our way back to the Cathedral on Stephensplatz to begin the walking tour in the Vienna Book of Legends. We made a huge tour of the first district, picking up gelato and a light lunch. I had a cinnamon bun, which isn’t really lunch. It was ok but it had raisins in it, which isn’t very cool. We also did some shopping and I bought a dress with some sort of cutouts, which Maryn will love. Some people called out to ask us if we spoke German, I said “Ein bision”, and kept on walking. We didn’t want to talk to them. After 19:00, we boarded our overnight train to Verona. I kicked Dominique’s butt at speed twice! I like the train, it’s peaceful. Our sleep cabin is tiny, but kind of cool. There’s all these cupboards on one wall and the beds bunk-bed style on the other. There is also a full-length mirror above the bottom bunk. My first train ride ever and Dominique lost her ticket. I found it, and so obviously, I saved the day.

Viennese Legends
-Iron-Stump-Square
It’s about a Locksmith’s apprentice’s pact with the devil. Eventually he met with a terrible fate and it became custom that every locksmith journeyman would put a nail in that same tree that the boy had locked for the Devil. They do this to ward off the same or a similar fate.
-Pagan’s Shot at Heidenschuss
It so happens that the Turks tried to invade Vienna several times. In 1529, they surrounded the city and bombarded the walls for weeks. Failing flushing the people out, they attempted to dig under the walls. But the Viennese were ready; they placed barrels with calf-skin covers in their basements, and dice on top. A baker found that his dice were moving slightly, and he could hear quiet voices. So the soldiers flooded the baker’s basement and the invading Turkish soldiers drowned. At this failure they left their siege of the city.
-Pushed to Heaven
A very vain lady scoffs at the statue of the Virgin Mary, saying how much prettier she is than Mary. Then a beggar showed up peddling the most beautiful dress. She said the lady could wear it for 3 days and 3 nights, but after that deadline the beggar wanted the dress returned with whatever was left inside. When the lady tried to take it off 3 days later, it wouldn’t budge, so the beggar wanted to collect the lady as well. With the beggar cackling away, the dress spontaneously caught fire. The lady pulled more frantically at the dress, revealing her cross and picture of the Virgin Mary. At which point the beggar gasped and the dress burst open, saving the lady’s life. Then she felt bad for her extreme vanity and atoned by becoming a nun. Then something about even minor belief pushing you towards Heaven.
-A Baker’s Punishment
Standard loaves were round shaped. If the people thought   it wasn’t big enough, they could go out to St. Stephen’s Cathedral and measure it against the round shape beside the Giant’s Doorway. If it was smaller they could lodge a complaint at the Baker’s Guild. Then, once proved, the baker was locked in a cage over the river and then dunked repeatedly for some time. It wasn’t meant to kill, but many bakers drowned. 
-Dear Augustin
Augustin was a ballad singer. He entertained people all over Vienna who were wanting to forget the plague that was killing so many. They loved Augustin and called him ‘Lieber Augustin’ (Dear Augustin). With a rise in the disease, less people came out to hear him, so he drowned his sorrows in wine. Then, unable to walk home he fell in the gutter and went to sleep. At this time, undertakers collected the bodies of the dead plague victims from the streets at night, to take them to mass graves outside the city walls. Augustin was quite shocked when he awoke amongst so many dead. The walls of the pit being too high for him to climb, he played bagpipes until an undertaker heard him and came to his rescue. Despite his closeness to so much plague, he never fell ill. He became very popular after that, because he incorporated his night in the pit into his songs. 
-The Basilisk at the Bakery
The bakery on Shonlaterngasse was famous for its bread. The young housemaid was fetching water when she noticed an awful smell coming out of the well. She became sick and fainted. The baker and his apprentices rushed to help her. Only one was brave enough to catch a glimpse. The creature had the head of a cock, with a golden crown on it, the body of a toad and the tail of a snake. Only the Emperor’s doctor (who was quite well read on Greek mythology) had any ideas what to do. So Georg (who was secretly in love with the maid and wished to gain the baker’s approval for marriage) was dressed up with a blindfold, wax in his ears and covered his nose, so that he could not see, hear or smell the creature. They gave him a mirror and stuck him in the well. The creature was so afraid and repulsed by his own reflection that he promptly died. They sealed the well so no one would drink from the contaminated water again. 
-The Red Tower
The Red Tower gatehouse was the busiest in the city. Affixed above the gate was a very curious piece of wood. It resembled a piece of bacon and had written on it:
“If there is a man who can truly claim that he isn’t under his wife’s thumb, he shall be able to take the bacon off the tower.” All the men disliked it, but no one dared try to remove it. One brave (or stupid) man decided to try. Word got round and everyone came to watch. He got halfway up the ladder before descending again and saying that someone must go up first and clean it, lest he get his suit dirty, for his wife would surely  scold him. Everyone laughed, and he, realizing his mistake, left quite hurriedly. Eventually the tower was demolished and the bacon with it. All the Viennese men were very pleased to see the back of that offending bacon.
-Kolschitzky’s Coffee Beans
Kolschitzky was the key to the driving out of the Turks when they seized the city the second time. He had learned Turkish in his travels and offered to ride out through the Turks, pretending to be one of them, and call for help. It worked, and the town offered him whatever he wanted in return for his heroic deed. He asked only for the barrels of mysterious beans left behind by the Turks. For he knew what to do with them, and he knew he would be quite rich. So he opened a coffee shop. And that is how coffee came to Vienna.

Day 14 - Belvedere and Natural History

Belvedere


Natural History Museum
I forgot to mention about yesterday, this weird old man stopped us in the train station to tell us to read the Bible every night. He went on and on for at least 5 mins. Which is awkwardly long when a strange old man is telling you that to be saved you must read every night 20-30 mins and of course no sex before marriage! It was kind of funny, but mostly awkward. Also, on the train these guys sat down across from us and decided to take off their shirts and Dominique was telling me a story. I found this hilarious, because these guys were actually very attractive and Dominique was totally oblivious. They even after asked where we were from. 
Anyways, today I woke up early and had a terrible sleep, so I was so tired all day. We started the morning at the Belvedere. We saw both the Upper and Lower Belvedere, and the gardens. The ‘orangerie’ had many grotesque statues which neither of us liked very much. Then we got back on the Tram and went for lunch at T.G.I.F. And I know it’s an American restaurant, but I’ve never been to one except once in Honduras, and now here in Vienna. Afterwards, we took a walk past the Mozart monument and went into the Museum of Natural History. There were many interesting things there, but most of the information was in German, so we mostly just looked. Then gelato! I swear I will come home having gained 10 lbs :( But the gelato is so good!! Tonight, Uncle Rainer’s sister, Marlies, dropped by and we all went to Wurth’s Heurigen. Food and wine was good again, and now they will close for the obligatory 2 weeks before they can open again. Dumb restaurant laws. Overall, a good long day. 

Day 13 - Dominique Arrives!

Schonbrunn

 This morning Dominique arrived and it was so annoying at the terminal; t all people kept standing in front of me. But we found her and brought her back for breakfast and a tour. Then we took the train and the Ubahn to get to Schonbrunn. This place is huge and beautiful and I don’t care how tacky I think gold is, this place pulls it off. The gardens weren’t as nice as at Schloss Hof though. Then we went back in the city and had a good late lunch on Judenplatz. We wandered, looked at the oldest church (St. Ruprecht’s), and we got gelato at the famous gelato place. Dominique bought a pair of shorts and then we came back. I also finally got on skype with Mom, Laura and Katelyn. Mom was singing some silly song by The Monkees. So I looked them up and I actually kind of love them. That guy, Filip, from the flashmob, was talking to me too. Ew, if Germany would win the World Cup. Soccer is lame, rugby and hockey are both obviously better. Night.

Day 12 - Museums and Jumping in the Fountain

Museum of Medical History


Wall in the U-bahn

Jumping in the Fountain
Today I am wandering the streets of Vienna. Alone. It’s my last day being in Viennese museums without Dominique. On the list are the Doll & Toy Museum, Museum of Medical History, Museum of Pathological Anatomy, and the Austrian Folkloric Museum. The Doll & Toy Museum was closed. So I took the U2 to the 8th district and went into the Medical History Museum. I had lunch on the way to the Pathological Anatomy Museum at Welt Cafe. That museum was at the back of a University campus, so I wandered the campus and found the museum also closed. So off to the last one. I found it interesting to see the Austrian folkloric museum. Very interesting things there. There were a lot of things I’d never seen or heard of before; some of which the meaning/use was obvious. I also saw this board which had written all the stereotypes of different people in Europe. This was passed down in the family, an amassment of knowledge, for use when meeting new people I guess. Haha, I found it funny, even if I couldn’t read it. On my way back to do some shopping in the 1st district, this guy stopped me and started chattering away at me in German. When I finally spit out that I only understood a little German he switched to French. Then he was telling about how they were all going to go jump into the fountain, at some platz that I can’t remember, at 3PM. It’s going to be a flashmob and they are going to start a water fight. He switched to English after. Turns out, he and his friends all go to an English-speaking school in Vienna. So I went with them, jumped in the fountain, chatted some more. Then of course I couldn’t go dripping in all the stores, so I took the Ubahn back to the train station and everyone was giving me funny looks. Then I was lost and confused at the train station, where I tried to give my seat to an old man. He started talking at me in German. All I got was that he was ok standing until the train came in a few minutes. Then I think he made a joke, because he started laughing after, so I laughed too. I didn’t want him to feel bad. I got back to the house and worked some more in the garden. Tante Carole made roast chicken with rice and carrots, and it was the most delicious way of having chicken. Mmm... Afterwards I tried skyping Mom, but she was home later from work than she said she would be, so I just went to bed.

Day 11 - History is Big

Carnuntum


Schloss Hof

Kellerplatz
Happy Birthday Canada! Today we took an all day trip to Carnuntum and Schloss Hof. Carnuntum is the ruins of an ancient roman empire encampment which grew to be a small city. I found it very interesting to see their restorations of the buildings, and the amount of information they have on the people’s day to day lives. Schloss Hof is like any other palace: it’s beautiful and it’s changed hands a couple of times. It was cool to see the restorations here too. In both places you can see the mess of what it was and they restored as much as they could of its former glory. On the way back, we stopped in a small town,  so that Uncle Rainer and I could see the Kellerplatz. Usually they’re called a Kellergasse. But with either name, this is a place where there are only local wine cellars. They are a stone facade built right into the hill. They dig underground until they find the perfect conditions for wine-making. When it’s ready they sell it on the street at tables where people can eat and drink the heuriger. And this is the origins of Heurigens. Very picturesque. I am loving Austria, and aspergle (asparagus). White is even better than green. I bought a Roman style ring and some seeds for Mom’s garden.

Friday 25 February 2011

Day 10 - Work for Wine

Today was a long day of mowing the lawn and clearing the new yard around the pond. I was also tormenting some ants. For dinner we went to a Heurigen. They’re not real restaurants; they don’t have a license or anything. So they are only open for a couple of weeks at a time. They are very popular in Austria. A heurigen is run by a local vineyard and they sell only the wine made by them. There are several different heurigens in Perchtoldsdorf. I had a lasagne thing and we shared a heuriger (this year’s wine). It was very good. We also ate this dessert thing, which was an apricot baked into a dough made out of cream cheese and sugar. It tasted better than it sounds.

Day 9 - Judenplatz and Celebration Dinner



Replica of the old Synagogue
This morning, I bumped around the house. Oh wait before I forget, I uploaded some pictures this morning. I’m curious to see what people think. I probably have taken ridiculously too many pictures. Then this afternoon, I went into the 4th district with Tante Carole. Their apartment is huge! It’s #17 in building 36 on Johann Strauss Gasse. I took the Ubahn (the subway; U standing for a word meaning underground and bahn referring to a place for travelling, kinda like in ‘autobahn’) to Operstat, the station near the State Opera building. Then I walked to Judenplatz (Jewish Square/Place), where the Jewish monument and museum are. In the museum, there is a hall to see the ruins of the oldest synagogue in the city. I learned quite a bit about the Jewish religion, especially after I left and Tante Carole explained what Kosher means. Then more gelato! And a stop at H&M where I got a new t-shirt, and a sundress for cheap. Then I took the Ubahn back to the 4th district, where I immediately got lost and had to ask a shopkeeper for directions, in German! I’m so proud of myself. I even understood her reply! I spent the rest of the evening reading Shantaram and a book on Viennese legends. Both are very interesting. Tonight I made dinner; Chicken Fettucini Alfredo, and I even made the sauce from scratch! It was very tasty. So we ate that and had Champagne, because we are now all officially on vacation, even Uncle Rainer.

Day 8 - Dinner with Sachiko

Tante Carole and Sachiko

Plague Church
Today was a travel day; all day in the car back to Vienna. When I got back I borrowed Shantaram from Tante Carole (by Gregory David Roberts). I think Nick would like this book, I should remember to tell him about it. 
ingwer - ginger
apfel - apple
ach so - kinda like oh really, but it can be different things
bitte - please, you’re welcome, and favour
danke - Thank-you
Shun - added to bitte or danke to show extra feeling
Tante Carole and I met her friend Sachiko at a Thai/Chinese restaurant. The food was really good and Sachiko was really nice. She is a (nearly) 80-year-old woman who looks like she couldn’t be a day over 50. She brought me some traditional Japanese candies in a traditional box, which I think might be a little bit over my head. I must remember to send her a postcard from Italy to thank her for her generosity. She told me she liked Venice the best. I should send one from there.

Day 7 - Croatia and dinner with the hotel owner!

Swimming in the Mediterranean

Resort where we were staying
So we got up early. We have to leave Ossiach :(. Next show is in Opatija (in Croatia). To get to Croatia we had to cross through Slovenia. Croatia is on the coast, and really, it’s gorgeous! Our hotel is huge. Apparently, Croatia is the European vacation spot; kinda like when Canadians/Americans go to Cuba or Dominican. We walked down the promenade to the main part of town to see where the concert would be and to get some lunch. Note to self: watch the movie about Austria’s Empress Sisi (Elizabeth); she is not only important in Austrian history but she’s said to be the downfall of their monarchy. She comes up in Croatian history a bunch too. Then Uncle Rainer and I went for a swim in Skrbici Bay (haha, don’t ask me how to pronounce it). The water was amazing! More clean, clear and warmer than Ossiacher See. The concert was great even the second time around. I really enjoyed the second half. Afterwards, we took a taxi over to a 100-year old building newly renovated as a spa/restaurant/hotel (with only 6 rooms ;P). Must be really expensive! Beautiful building, great view of the water and Opatija. I was sitting beside Jonathan, a conductor from the conservatory of music and dance in England. He taught me a tongue twister in the Czech language. It goes like this: Strc prst skrz krk. It means push (your) finger through (your) throat. The ‘your’ is implied. Ridiculous language, making do with so few vowels; I don’t understand at all! Across from me was the Austrian ambassador to Croatia. And of course there was also: Isabelle and Remy (the conductor and his wife), Carole and Rainer, a colleague of Uncle Rainer’s, the man who organized the concerts, the man who owned the hotel and his friend. The food was pretty good except that it had octopus on it. I just couldn’t eat them, all those little legs. I think I have a serious aversion to seafood with legs. Overall it was a nice night though. Now to bed, because it’s an early morning to get back to Vienna in time for Uncle Rainer’s rehearsal.